Complications
It turns out that it's actually really, really easy to set up an l2tp tunnel. You just need to install xl2tpd, configure some address ranges and then add an authentication entry to chap-secrets. It's just that the entire known universe appears to be more interested in using ipsec as well, and that looks worse than setting up Kerberos and I've already done that enough in my life thanks. I don't care about my connection being encrypted (I've got encrypted protocols for that), so this seems to be an entirely reasonable solution.